Greystone
by Frank Quattrone
The most recent addition to Newtown’s burgeoning restaurant scene is, in fact, the oldest—at least, in terms of origin. The Grey Stone Fine Food & Spirits, located midway between Washington Crossing and the bustling village of Newtown, dates back to 1682, when William Penn purchased the sturdy building from the Lenni-Lenape Tribal Nation. Guests who dine in the Romance Room, seating up to twenty and heated by a charming fireplace, can enjoy their meal in the nicely refurbished original setting.
But the Grey Stone, a restaurant and inn for most of its 336 years, most recently as a catering hall, has undergone an extensive ten-month renovation. Under the watchful eye of new owner Brandon Smith, who supervised much of the detail himself, it reopened last spring as a sparklingly elegant contemporary restaurant able to seat 240 people in its three indoors dining rooms, bar, and upstairs event space, and up to 130 more outdoors in its spacious patio, weather permitting, with space heaters to keep guests warm. Lions and other wildlife paintings dominate the décor.
Brandon, a longtime passionate food enthusiast, modestly describes the menu as “traditional items with modern flair.” When pressed for more, the youthful restaurateur calls it “eclectic, modern, and classic comfort food, seasonal and versatile.” The new fall/winter menu, like the summer menu before it, features items that can easily appeal to a wide range of tastes—casual enough for families with young children and innovative enough to entice foodies seeking the latest destination restaurant.
The starters alone have such a distinctly international flavor that Eve and I seriously considered ordering our entire meal from this part of the menu. We were enticed by the Blistered Shishito Peppers, topped with lemongrass aioli, cashew dust, wonton chips, and Korean chili flakes; the Lamb Meatballs, served with golden raisin pesto, grapes, smoked paprika yogurt, and micro mint; and the Wasabi Crusted Ahi Tuna Salad, laced with mandarin oranges and miso dressing.
But our choices might have been the best of the lot. Eve had a generous plate of General Tso’s Cauliflower, served with wasabi ranch dressing, a tangy complement to any meal; and I enjoyed a long, curled arm of Chili Glazed Octopus, served with a rainbow of olives, roasted tomatoes, patatas bravas (fried spicy white potatoes, a Spanish dish), and tempranillo, a great red Spanish grape. It was so tender that I could cut it with my fork and so memorable that it recalled my first encounters with these delicious soft-bodied molluscs back in Venice, Italy. My favorite dish of the night!
Next came a similar rush of indecision with the pastas and entrées. Eve hardly left me a taste of her Peppercorn Crusted Ahi Tuna, accompanied by cool soba noodles and perfectly grilled asparagus, kissed by a lemongrass aioli. It was delightful. But honestly, the surprise of the evening was a dish I never dreamed I would order out in a restaurant: Grilled Pork Chop. Since I was a young boy growing up in South Philadelphia, even in the hands of my dearly beloved nonna (who was the best cook in the world, as far as I was concerned), pork chops have always been my bane. Dry and tough, pork chops always seem more like work to me than anything desirable to eat.
But inspired by Grey Stone’s fine staff to try a dish they find to be among the kitchen’s best, I accepted the challenge and came away amazed. Served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sweet apple and onion compote in an apricot cherry pork jus, it was, hands down, the most moist and flavorful pork chop I have ever eaten—and the only one I have ever enjoyed! Prepared sous vide, French for “under vacuum,” a process of vacuum-sealing food in a bag, then cooking it in a regulated precise temperature in a water bath, sealing in the moistness (as well as the flavor), it was thick yet tender and moist, tasting just as good the next day. Kudos to the chef! A masterpiece—especially for a non-believer.
Other entrées we put on hold until our next visit: Seared Scallops served with creamy grits, chorizo, and corn ragout in a chimichurri sauce, and Chicken Marsala Meatballs, served with thick pappardelle pasta, Kennett Square mushrooms, and prosciutto. Also look for some great sandwiches on the Sunday to Thursday menu!
The restaurant also features twenty-four craft beers on tap and an extensive wine list, including four wines (among them a California pinot noir, an Italian pinot grigio, a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, and a cabernet) on tap, rendering them exceptionally “clean” and bright to the palate.
Eve and I found the bold new Grey Stone to be welcoming, elegant, and approachable. We call it “fine dining without the fuss.” It’s a welcome addition to Newtown’s bustling dining scene.
The Grey Stone Fine Food & Spirits is located at 552 Washington Crossing Road, Newtown, PA 18950; 267-759-6752; www.greystonefinefood.com. Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; & Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Sunday Brunch. Closed Monday. Live light blues Friday & Saturday nights. Available for birthday parties, rehearsal dinners, showers, and more.
